mardi 5 juillet 2011

A good husband is one who has a bike.

South Kivu is the site of horrible massacres, mass rapes and marauding armed groups. Every few kilometres a memorial marks the site of a mass grave of victims. Here in the territory of Fizi, in the month of June and only in one village, 120 women were raped. Rape is a weapon of war here. In all of the Congo, I am told there are 45 rapes every hour. But people are returning despite all the violence. Returning to destroyed homes and fields, they are trying to put their lives back together. The area is spectacularly beautiful, but also holds many mineral resources, the reason so many different groups are fighting.


Two very eligible bachelors?
There aren't many roads, no railway to speak of and many goods are transported on the backs of women. So if you are a man with a bicycle, you are very popular. They use bicycles to transport everything. Most bicycles are imported from China or India. Anyone want to open up a factory here to build local bikes? Could be a profitable market and you could create many a happy home!


An interesting story to follow-up on: In this traditionally christian country, I notice a few mosques. Talking to a group of children, one tells me his name is Aboubakar, a name I would expect in Mali, but not here in the Congo. I asked an aid worker here about the presence of islam. He tells me it is ever since the UN soldiers arrived. Most soldiers are from Pakistan. "They have their official mission and a secret mission," he tells me. "They give 100 dollars to someone who agrees to convert to islam." 

vendredi 1 juillet 2011

African leaders meet in an exclusive area on an island in the Atlantic

Not many people have been to Equatorial Guinea, but most of the African leaders now have. Shuffled from their private planes along a private 6-lane highway, lined with their portraits, the leaders entered the area known as Sipopo. Each has his own villa overlooking the sea. I don't doubt the sincerity of many of the leaders, but this area seems to be at the heart of the problems that these leaders are gathered here to talk about: poverty and the income gap, education and opportunities for youth.


Just behind my hotel is, sadly, what one normally sees of Africa, dirt roads, shacks and people struggling to get by. And Equatorial Guinea is a rich country with gas and oil. The place is fairly clean and there is, I'm told, very little crime. There is a lot of construction going on. Like many countries in Africa, it has a lot going for it. They say this is the continent of the future.


That is, of course, if they, the leaders, can get things moving. Organising a good summit might be a place to start. I don't like to complain, but I can't say I've seen a summit meeting so badly organised. Only one person was in charge of people arriving at the airport. I had to wait 4 hours out on the sidewalk while others waited for their visas. Finding a hotel took hours. The first day, I was questioned and reprimanded, although politely, not to film because I didn't have the right papers yet (this is probably because the regime here is authoritarian and they are not used to cameras). Accreditation takes hours as well and, so far I have had 3 different accreditation cards. At one accreditation booth, the guy even asked me for money.


Pool at the 5-star hotel, said to be the President's.
But, in the end, things seem to work out and most people here are of a good nature and any conversation ends in a good smile. I'm not sure if that is good enough to discourage leaders from building their own private highways to the beach and to invest in their people's future. 

samedi 23 avril 2011

The National Centre for Performing Arts or The Egg.
China may soon be the next superpower with its economic weight and as a tourist in China, you might feel that people are free, being able to own things and work as they want. But I tend to judge a country's level of freedom by the way they treat the press. China is still afraid of journalists. We came to do a simple cultural programme, featuring a famous piano player Youndi Yi. But we weren't able to bring in our own equipment because the Chinese put a high temporary import tax on cameras. So we had to rent gear in China. You also have to work with a local production company or have someone from the government accompany you everywhere you go. So, not exactly a press-friendly place.


Despite the lack of freedom, China is a wonderful place. Beijing is a big modern city with clean streets and dazzling lights. The people are friendly and the whole thing makes you want to go out and learn Chinese!


Maybe one fact leading to China's economic success was its one-child rule to reduce its population. Established in 1979 by Deng Xiaoping, the law was meant to be temporary, but is still in place a quarter of a century later. The law has maybe had its economic effect but does have secondary social effects. The Chinese prefer to have a boy and there have been many cases of ending a pregnancy if it is a girl. Now there are many young men left without hope of finding a bride and many young women enjoying a good education, social mobility and a large choice of future mates.



jeudi 7 avril 2011

Everyone gets along in Azerbaijan

I'm here to film a report for Euronews on the Intercultural Dialogue Forum. Azerbaijan is really at the crossroads of many cultures. To illustrate the story, we filmed four different religious ceremonies, Jewish, Russian Orthodox, Catholic and Muslim. Having been to four different religious prayers in one day, I should have all bases covered for the afterlife.


It would be nice if religions were always that open. As one delegate said, the problem isn't religion... it is those who try to use religion for their own political purposes. The church, synagogue and mosque invited us in and were very hospitable. At the synagogue, mosque and orthodox church I was allowed to film anywhere and I did try to get a lot of different angles. Only the catholic church said I could only film from the back of the church.


The last time I was in Baku, I was in the Soviet Union. Today, this vibrant city of four and a half million is unrecognisable from that not so distant past. With new oil wealth, the city is being completely revamped. New construction seems to follow a building code to respect the architectural heritage of the city. The old soviet style buildings are all being torn down. Parks and façades are beautifully lit at night as the cool evening air off the Caspian sea rolls in.


The talk at the forum is of cultural diversity, acceptance of each other and tolerance. Azerbaijan was one of the first nations to give women the vote. But the crossroads of culture is sadly also a battlefield of politics. The explosive Caucus region is to the north, with Tchetchnya and Ossetia. Iran is to the south. Azerbaijan is still at war, albeit a cease-fire, with Armenia. Tolerance and acceptance have a lot to do with being able to eat well, work and discuss freely. 
You can see the report here:
http://www.euronews.net/2011/04/08/azerbaijan-a-forum-for-intercultural-dialogue/

lundi 7 mars 2011

A Gaddafi in a ski suit and refugees with no where to go.

After a week of filming refugees, I feel a mental tiredness from seeing and hearing the same horrible stories over and over. It's not that I have reached a point of not caring, not at all. As a journalist, we have to keep a certain distance from the story or we couldn't do our job. But we are humans too and you can't help feeling very sad for these poor people who have lost everything, yet smile. So we smile and don't let things get to you... and that is mentally fatiguing.

Where are is the ski lift?
Yesterday. Gaddafi's son, Hanibal Gaddafi arrived at the border here. Sadly we missed him by 10 minutes. There was no camera present, but a Swiss photographer, Guillaume Briquet, took pictures and gave us some, which we sent to Euronews. He didn't say anything to the press, but looked like he just got back from a ski trip in Switzerland, dressed in a white ski suit and dark glasses.

This morning, it's back to the Choucha camp. The report is that the Tunisian's are handling things fine. The international organisations present are just crisis planning if things really get bad in Libya and another wave of refugees arrives. 

Sanitation is a big problem now in Choucha camp.
Filming in the camp, I met Daniel (his christian name, he tells me). Daniel's situation is maybe worse than other refugees because he was a clandestine worker in Libya from Burkina Faso. "In November, police came to our apartment and took us to prison," relates Daniel. "They said they would let us go if we paid 300 Dinar (around 200 euros). Some paid, but they didn't let us go. We stayed there two months and then they took us to another prison where we stayed one month. Finally they let us go and we arrived here last night."

A Bangladechi refugee takes a shower.
They are eight Burkinabes in the Choucha camp Daniel tells me. The Egyptians and Vietnamese left or are leaving. The Bangladeshis, some 13,000 out of a total of 16,000 refugees in the camp, are hoping to leave soon. The eight Burkinabes, clandestine workers, will probably have to go back the way they came... across the Sahara. "It was a very tough trip here," remembers Daniel. "Many died."

vendredi 4 mars 2011

Ras Jedir border with Libya

After spending most of the night filming and editing a story on refugees finally taking a plane home, we headed to the border this morning to see who is left. As we drove to the border, a tide of humans walked along the dusty road toward the Choucha refugee camp. They were all Bengladeshis. These poor people have had to watch while others, Egyptians, Vietnamese and others, take buses to the airport and a plane ride back home. There is no bus for the Bangladeshis, the Ghanians, Malgach and others, whose countries are too poor or can`t be bothered to come and get them. "I`m just following the others," says one young refugee, who looks like he should be in school. "Everyone else is leaving. No one is helping the Bangladeshis."

In the evening we went back to the border to see what was going on. It was mostly empty. A family of Bangladeshi was crossing the border with two little girls dressed with beads in their hair. I wondered what they may have been through as Gaddafi`s troops have sealed the border now and there are some 12,000 people wanting to flee into Tunisia. The Libyan side looked abandonned. Even the green flags were gone. The Tunisian side is strewn with debris, blankets and a few broken suitcases.

A Bangladeshi refugee succombs to exhaustion.
It is a bit frustrating as a journalist here because we all want to get into Libya, but it is at the least very dangerous and probably impossible as Gaddafi tries to hold on to power. I think about those risking their lives to take pictures from their phones as hundreds of professionals are sitting here waiting for a chance to get in. The dream is to be there when the Libyan people finally take power and as their neighbors in Egypt and Tunisia, make their voices heard. But they are up against a madman. Can they do it on their own?


mercredi 2 mars 2011

Ras Jedir on the Libyan border

They wait in apparent good humour given all they've been through. Over 70,000 have passed this border crossing and thousands are still waiting. At left is a picture of those still waiting to pass into Tunisia escaping fighting, robbery and agression from Gaddafi's troops. Many have spent days to get here. Most are Egyptian as well as many Bangladeshi and Vietnamese.


As they trickle through, the Tunisian put up an heroic effort to distribute food, water and blankets. It is very cold at night here in the desert. We stay in a hotel without heat and I sleep with blankets and a coat feeling very priviledged when I think of all those still waiting to cross the border. International help is just beginning to arrive as this potential human catastrophy mounts.


Camps are spreading out as thousands carry all their belongings across into a field and set up tents from the United Nations Refugee Agency. The Tunisian army and nacient government are trying their best to organise this human tide. Along the road, we have seen private cars filled with bread and mattresses for the refugees. I think the Tunisians are very proud that the Arab revolution started in their country and they are being very generous to help their neighbors. The Tunisian flag is even carried by some refugees as a sign of freedom.